Version 13

Version #13 (Yin & Yang)

March 2020

I've finally found some time to do another version (Yes I'm never happy with what I made earlier) Version #12 which I cut out and assembled last week had some problems I did not like. So back to the drawing board.

#13 is more car like, than the previous versions. I keep coming back to this type of body. It would be similar to the Challenger velomobile. It has more window area. Which can cause summer heating problems, but those can be overcome with more venting. The other thing I like about this velomobile body is that there is more room with the sloping front . I have a commercial built WAW velomobile which hugs your body very close. #13 velo is not as claustrophobic.

As each of these versions have evolved. I have found different ways of making the velomobile body easier. With my earlier designs I had the support frames with tabs that went through the bottom. And a few other parts that were way over in terms of strength, and complexity that were needed.

I have found that if the coroplast panels are formed in such a way as to bend the panels, and glued to each other. It makes a strong body. You do not need PVC pipes to make a frame to hold everything together.  There is no extra weight from having PVC pipes. This coro body weighs in at 17 lbs.There are no flat areas on this velomobile body. All areas are curved. If you have flat areas on the coro body... in side winds they will flex.

Adding a backer piece to the upper side panel. Since the part is over 8 feet in length I needed to add a section to the side. I just glued it in place with drops of super tack 500 hot glue for coroplast. I add a small drop every 1 inch or so. If I add to much glue it starts to melt into the outer edge of the coroplast. So smaller spaced closer is better.

Cleaning out the flutes that the CNC router did not remove for the lexan window that will go in. It's easier to do it now while it's easy to get to.

Adding a piece of duct tape to hold the top panel in place. I will remove it when I need to cut out the canopy.

Starting to tape up the upper side panels. Duct tape added every 4  inches or so holds everything together until I hot glue the inside edges.

                                                           A close up view of the front.

Top all taped up. I will add hot glue to the inside. and then when cool. Put on a 1 inch wide piece of duct tape to cover the glue beads.

working on the bottom sections. They are about the same design as earlier versions. 3 pieces of coroplast that are connected above the wheel wells.

Backing piece to hold the sections in place. A this point the whole part is flimsy so I have to be careful.

                                        Adding a few pieces of duct tape before hot gluing.

This is a close up of the bottom panel where the foot holes are. I have glued on the front orange colored section then added a piece of duct tape. At this point I have taken some flexible 1/2 inch vinyl tape and wrapped over every area where the coroplast flutes are exposed. This prevents dirt and water from getting inside.

Taping up the bottom section to the sides. I will then add hot glue to the inside edges.

                                            This makes it easier to work on the wheel wells.

                                                            Glue every 1/2 inch.

 These are support pieces that are put in just behind the seat next to the sides. I pre glue them so they hold their shape. Then I install them.

                                       Taping up  the sides. Then gluing on the inside.

                                                             Cutting out the canopy.